European Summer, Chapter Two: Our Rome Adventure

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After three unforgettable days in Switzerland, we left the Swiss mountains behind and flew south to Italy, where the energy and heat hit us the moment we arrived. Rome felt alive in a completely different way—loud, messy, fast-paced, and so fascinating. We knew right away that this chapter of the trip would be just as unforgettable.

Rome has been at the top of my travel list for years. I’ve always imagined what it would be like to finally step inside the Colosseum, to stand in the middle of all that ancient stone and feel the weight of history settle over me. Then ending the day in a cozy ristorante, twirling hand‑made pasta and soaking in the city’s chaotic charm. I finally got to do all that and more!

Day 1

This chapter of our epic European summer didn’t begin quite as smoothly as we hoped. Our flight from Basel to Rome via Munich was delayed two hours because of mechanical problems—just under the limit that would have qualified us for compensation under EU261, the European Union's strict passenger-rights law. The regulation spells out when airlines must offer compensation (up to €600 per passenger), care, or refunds for long delays, cancellations, or denied boarding on EU‑related flights. It’s a good one to remember if Europe is on your travel radar.

With the delay cutting into our evening, we ditched the idea of navigating the metro and grabbed a taxi instead. The fixed €55 fare got us to our hotel in about 25 minutes, nearly half the time the train would have taken. After a long travel day, it was money well spent and not all that expensive when you have a family of four.

And our first meal in Italy? Easily one of the top highlights of the whole trip. On a recommendation from our front desk agent, we went to Papa Rex Ristorante and somehow had one of the best dinners of our lives. Every dish was mouth-wateringly delicious, and the staff was so warm and genuine that we felt like family. It was so comforting and memorable that we went back two nights later, and it was just as wonderful.

Day 2

After a hearty breakfast, complimentary with our stay at Hotel Nova Domus Aurelia, we hopped on the metro and made our way to the Spanish Steps, convinced that we could beat the crowds by arriving before 9:00 a.m. Spoiler: we did not. We stepped straight into a sea of tourists all jostling for the same Instagram-worthy photo and shuffling shoulder‑to‑shoulder up the steps. It was loud and chaotic, and somehow what we expected of Rome.

After snapping our obligatory photos, we wandered through the maze of side streets lined with cafés and souvenir shops. We had a fun time laughing at some quirky finds like ceramic busts of cats as emperors, tiny Roman statues, and gladiator masks. While we didn't buy one of these, we did pick up a couple of t‑shirts for my parents, postcards, a very cool 3D wood-carved magnet, and a must-have shot glass for my travel collection.

Since it was right by the Spanish Steps, we ducked into the oldest McDonald's in Rome for lunch, and it felt more like a museum than a fast‑food restaurant. We were not expecting marble walls, vaulted ceilings, and classical sculptures. The food, however, was classic McDonald’s with a slight Italian twist.

We were planning to explore the area a bit longer, maybe even make our way to the Trevi Fountain, but the infamous heat wave got to us. We knew Rome would be hot and humid, but experiencing that heavy, relentless heat in person was a whole different story. After an hour of trying to power through, we surrendered and grabbed an Uber to an indoor shopping mall, where we spent the rest of the afternoon and evening enjoying air conditioning, treating ourselves to gelato (twice!), and digging into pasta again for dinner.

Day 3

Our third day in Rome was all about finally crossing the Colosseum off my bucket list. Even with early timed‑entry tickets, we still joined hundreds already queuing in the morning heat. While we got through security fairly quickly, we had to line up again to pick up the kids’ free tickets. Admission is free for children under 18, but you can only collect them the day of with passports in hand. A small hassle, but one that’s hard to complain about when it comes with free entry.

Inside, the Colosseum felt even more ancient than it looked from the outside. The stairs alone were surprisingly intimidating—steep, narrow, uneven, and polished smooth by centuries of footsteps. I honestly can't remember the last time climbing stairs made my heart skip.

Standing on the second level of the Colosseum overlooking the arena and touching stone nearly two thousand years old, it felt unreal. It was easy to imagine the roar of spectators, the thud of sand under gladiators' feet, the sheer drama that once filled this space. But the heat was suffocating. We felt like we were in a sauna!

For lunch, we stopped into La Base Ristorante, a trendy spot just around the corner and down the street from the Colosseum. The neon signs and bright posters were what pulled us in, and I am glad they did. The menu was extensive, making it tough to choose, but everything we ordered was delicious.

We'd hoped to visit the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill next, since they were included with our Colosseum tickets, but with almost no shade inside the Forum and the afternoon heat climbing, we decided to skip it rather than risk anyone overheating. It was a tough call to make, but sometimes staying safe and being comfortable matters more than squeezing in one more landmark.

Instead, we slowed the pace and walked around, drifting between souvenir shops and clusters of street vendors. At one point, Radwin—well, we, but mostly Radwin—got caught in a classic tourist scam when a man slipped woven African bracelets onto his and Evelyn's wrists before asking for a “donation” for his family. He wasn’t aggressive, just very persistent, refusing to take the bracelets back or accept no as an answer. In the end, we handed over ten euros simply to stop him from trailing us, a small price for a lesson Radwin certainly won't forget.

We eventually found ourselves in front of the Pantheon, a second century Roman temple that’s been the Basilica of Santa Maria ad Martyres since 609 AD and remains one of the most iconic rotundas in the world. But by then we were sweaty, tired, and completely done. We called it a day and headed back to the hotel for a cold shower and a much‑needed break to rest our feet.

It was this evening that we returned to Papa Rex Ristorante for supper and it did not disappoint. We were welcomed back with the same warm smiles and easy familiarity that made our first visit feel so special. We ended the night with gelato (a theme at this point), a sweet finale I'd happily end every day with.

Day 4

The first thing we did was tackle the not‑so‑glamorous side of travel: laundry. We found a laundromat about 10 minutes from the hotel and stuffed one of our luggage with the growing pile of clothes that desperately needed a wash. It felt a little ridiculous rolling a luggage full of dirty laundry down the street, but it worked and the payoff was freshly washed clothes.

Once that difficult chore was done, we hopped on a bus that looped around the imposing Leonine Walls, then continued on foot straight into Vatican City. Crossing the “border” was surprisingly casual, but the number of guards posted around the perimeter, armed with rifles, caught us off guard. It was a little intimidating, even though we knew we had nothing to worry about.

We had planned to hang out at Piazza San Pietro a little bit before our timed visit to the Musei Vaticani, but we quickly learned there’s only one entrance, and it sits outside the walls on the opposite side from where we were. That meant a 15-minute walk back the way we came. And even with timed tickets purchased well in advance, the lines stretched hundreds of people deep, snaking along the outer wall. With the midday sun directly above us and not a single cloud in sight, the 40‑minute wait was downright brutal.

But it was worth the wait. The museums were fascinating and every gallery had something cool to see. Standing there, surrounded by centuries of history carefully arranged through every corridor and gallery, felt like a privilege. The kiddos’ favourite was the Gregorian Egyptian Museum, especially the mummy taking up residence in one of the rooms. Radwin didn’t have a favourite. As for me, I couldn’t get enough of the beautifully painted ceilings–the detail was incredible!

It took us about two and a half hours to wind through the uncomfortably hot and extremely crowded museums and by the end we were sweaty, tired, and a little dehydrated. If I could offer one piece of advice, it would be to avoid visiting during peak tourist season, especially summer. And if I could offer a second, go earlier in the day when the crowds are lighter.

No surprise that Radwin and the kids were craving Chinese as going a full week without it is basically unheard of for them. I, on the other hand, could survive on Italian carbs forever. We ended up at this tiny spot called Kungfu Express, and it totally hit the spot. Great food, super friendly owner. Starting to think that’s just how food works in Rome.

Day 5

As much as we would’ve loved to linger a little longer, it was time to say goodbye to Rome. Leaving Rome felt bittersweet, but we were excited for what was next. We were off to sail the Mediterranean, which I’ll dive into in the next post.